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PALAWAN
"The Philippine's Last Frontier"
Palawan has always been known, maybe especially so, among naturalists as a
remote, mysterious and dangerous island of swampy tropical forests with innumerable
malaria-carrying mosquitoes. The early naturalists probably didn't have
a very easy time here in Palawan - everything being a huge unexplored wilderness.
Since then many things have changed, some dramatically, some only a little.
In order to shed a little light on the facts of today's Palawan, I
decided to make this page. I hope you will find some valuable information
and that this maybe even can inspire you to "take the step" and pay Palawan
a visit and experience the beautiful tropical nature it offers. Palawan
certainly is one of the naturalist's absolutely best options in South-East
Asia.
Come and visit Palawan - "The Philippines Last Frontier"
Facts about Palawan
Geography:
The Province of Palawan (pronounced Paláwan) includes
mainland Palawan, the bigger island groups of Balabac, Calamianes,
Cuyo and Dumaran and some smaller islands, shoals and reefs.
Of the 7107 islands, which make up the Philippines, about 25 % are part of the
Province of Palawan. Administratively it is considered part of Luzon,
even though it is geographically well separated from this.
Palawan is the third biggest island in the Philippines and covers an area of
about 14.800 sq.km. The main island is a long thin slice of mountain ridges
that divides the Sulu Sea and the South China Sea. From the northernmost
to the southernmost point of the island its about 425 km long and the width
varies from about 45 km to as little as 8.5 km. The highest mountain is
Mt. Mantalingahan (2085 m.) at the southern end of the island.
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Attractions:
Unspoiled nature is what really makes a visit to Palawan worthwhile
for the entomologist and ordinary tourist alike. Palawan has no real
historical land marks. Palawan's major tourist attraction is the world's longest
underground river, stretching no less than 8.2 km. into the limestone
mountain of Saint Paul in the Saint Paul Subterranean River National Park.
Its a unique experience and you shouldn't miss it, if you come to Palawan
!
| Links to pictures: | |
| Beach of Sabang [49 kB] | |
| Mouth of Subterranean River [72 kB] | |
| Inside the Subterranean River [51 kB] | |
| Sunset at the beach of Port Barton [36 kB] | |
| Lagoon with bizarre rocks at El Nido [78 kB] | |
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Weather patterns:
Apart from the Calamianes group of islands, Palawan is outside the main
typhoon belt. Still on December 12, 1998 the typhoon "Faith" devastated
parts of Puerto Princesa's outskirts and some forested areas in the adjoining
foothills. Rainfall usually starts by late May and gets heavier
during June - December, when it is warm and very humid. January
and February are cooler (about 30-32 °C during midday and about 24
°C during night) and usually with clear skies. March and April
are dry season and rain is very limited, except in the higher mountains.
Temperatures rise to about 37 °C during this period (26-28 °C during
night) and some rivers dry up.
| Links to pictures: | |
| Irawan area devestated by typhoon "Faith" in 1998 [73 kB] | |
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Population:
In 1998 Palawan officially had about 750.000 inhabitants, roughly accounting
for only 1 % of the total population of the Philippines. Palawan
has historically been very sparsely populated. The majority are Christians,
but in the southern parts of Palawan and Balabac Muslim groups are dominant.
Immigrants from other parts of the country, like the Visayas and the
Bicol region of southern Luzon, have settled on Palawan in more recent times,
thus making it a "melting pot" of various cultural, ethnic and linguistic
groups. Palawan supposedly has a population growth rate more than the
double of the national average [and this can mainly be attributed to the large
number of immigrants].
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Tribal groups:
The Tagbanua are a fairly large ethnic group and mainly
found in the hills of central Palawan. They partly live from farming
and partly from hunting in the forests.
The Batak are very special as they are negritos, being small, very
dark-skinned and having a short curly hair. They live as semi-nomads
in the forests around Mount Cleopatra's Needle and are very shy towards strangers.
They remain much dependent on the forest.
The Tao't bato are known as the cave/stone people, the name referring
to their habitat at the Signapan caves at the lower flanks of Mount Mantalingahan
in the municipality of Rizal, south-west Palawan. Until a few years
ago only they lived as semi-nomads, using their caves as shelters during rainy
season. Unfortunately Christian missionaries have destroyed much of their
native identity and nowadays the younger Tao't bato settle in small villages
and mix with Pala'wan and immigrants.
The Pala'wan inhabit the mountains of southern Palawan and like the
Tagbanua, they live in villages or smaller settlements, farming and hunting
in the forests.
| Links to pictures: | |
| Tao't bato with native stile "gerry can" [59kB] | |
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Puerto Princesa City:
Puerto Princesa City is the capital and heart of Palawan,
being the center for trade, transport, communication, etc. Currently
the city has a population of some 160.000 people. There's air transport
to Manila daily and boats to Manila and the Visayas a few times weekly from
Puerto Princesa. Most modern conveniences and groceries can be found
in the city.
| Links to pictures: | |
| Usual traffic in Puerto Princesa [77kB] | |
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Palawan seas:
The seas around Palawan supposedly accounts for 60 % of the fish resources
gathered for human consumption in the Philippines. Extensive coral
reefs are found mainly around the smaller island municipalities, especially
in the northern parts.
| Links to pictures: | |
| Corals at Manta Ray Reef [38kB] | |
| Treasures of the beach - empty snail [90kB] | |
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Palawan forests:
Originally 92 % of Palawan were covered by primary rainforest, with
patches of grassland and swamps on the remaining 8 % land. It is estimated
that about 49 % of the forest remain today. In general coastal
plains along the east coast (Sulu Sea) have lost all forest a long time ago
and many places turned into farmland. The same goes for much of the low,
sloping areas of northern Palawan and more recently for lowland areas of the
west coast (South China Sea), mainly so in the south. The major strongholds
of the Palawan rainforest are the interior hills and mountains. Lack of
roads and other infrastructure and low population density must be considered
the main factor for Palawan supporting extensive forests.
| Links to pictures: | |
| Waterfall at Port Barton [54kB] | |
| Cold rainforest at 1500m [45kB] | |
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Flora and fauna:
Palawan's fauna has a number of special and endemic species,
like the Palawan bearcat, the Palawan peacock pheasant, the
Philippine cockatoo and a number of rodents. Balabac island
and a couple of its satellites are home to the endemic, nocturnal Balabac
mouse deer - the world's smallest deer ! Large mangrove forests
provide some untouched habitats for saltwater crocodiles and upriver
you may find the Philippine freshwater crocodile.
Butterflies are bountiful and number nearly 500 species -
more than can be found in the whole of Europe, up to the Ural mountains!
Many of the butterflies are endemic species or subspecies like the famous
birdwing butterfly Trogonoptera trojana and Papilio lowi.
Among moths new species are discovered frequently.
| Links to pictures: | |
| Wild lilly [38kB] | |
| Your local guide... - monkey [71 kB] | |
| A real beauty of the rainforest - snake from the top of a tree [80kB] | |
| Carnivorous plant (Nepenthaceae) [30kB] | |
| The guards of the beach - crabs [100kB] | |
Conservation and protection:
The whole Province of Palawan has been declared a National
Nature Reserve and a total logging ban has been imposed by the
national government to protect the remaining forests. Commercial destruction
of the forests of Palawan have now been halted. Now remains the problem
of slash-and-burn farming - or "kainin" as it is called in Tagalog.
The major problem for the "kainero" (slash-and-burn farmer) is the difficulty
to transport his crops from remote areas to a place with a road connecting
to the City. This means that only a few crops are produced and the farmer
moves on to another place in search of a livelihood. The greatest danger
in the slash-and-burn farming is the damage caused by fires lit by the farmers.
During the El Niño droughts of 1998, at least 25.000 hectares
of forest and grasslands were lost in huge bush-fires. In a remote
place like the Balabac group farmed goods are very difficult to sell, because
transportation by boat is expensive and competition by the mainland is too
tremendous, so most goods simply start rotting even before reaching the market!
This prompts some people to engage in illegal logging, as to make a
daily bred. Much lumber is still being smuggled from Balabac
to Sabah in Malaysia, often during night. Some remote areas of southern
mainland Palawan suffer from the same problem. Up to around 1990, tall
primary rainforest grew almost to the very coast of southern Rizal
municipality, south west Palawan. In 1995 it was a 2.5 hour hike (about
5 km!) through extensive fields of mainly the coarse "cogon" grass
(Imperata cylindrica) before coming even near the forest! It
appeasrs that the nature suffers less in central Palawan (basically the area
governed by the City of Puerto Princesa). Just 12 km from downtown Puerto
Princesa you find fine, primary rainforest with a lot of interesting species
of flora and fauna. The proximity of the City allows better surveillance
of illegal logging activities and "kainin". The northern part of mainland
Palawan has little forest left nowadays. Supposedly much of it was logged
by timber logging companies and shipped off to mainly Japan.
Luckily those days are over and the forest is struggling to re-establish itself
again.
| Links to pictures: | |
| Forest fire at Irawan during El Nino [54kB] | |
| A common scene... burned vegetation [54kB] | |
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Reforestation:
Every year tree planting projects are carried out by the City and Provincial
Governments. People of all strata join up and are hauled to reforestation
sites throughout the Province in trucks and jeeps. Mangrove trees
are likewise planted.
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Practical Travel Tips:
Accommodation:
Visitors of Palawan will find a wide range of accommodation
possibilities in central and northern Palawan. The southern
parts largely lack established accommodation!
Accommodation in Puerto Princesa starts at about US$ 4
for a single room with fan. More comfortable and attractive tourist
class hotels will range at about US$ 12 for a double-bed fan room to about
US$ 18-20 for a double-bed, air-con room. In the upper end of the line
you will find a 5-star hotel at more than 100 US$.
Outside Puerto Princesa you will find accommodation of mainly a more simple
nature - mainly native style bamboo cottages. Most rooms are very
simple. Single rooms with common bath and toilet usually go for about
US$ 5, US$ 7-8 for double rooms. By adding a couple of dollar you
will get private bath and toilet. Fans are usually not available at
these places and air-con is restricted to the breeze coming in from the
sea!
| Links to pictures: | |
| Typical cottage for tourists [98kB] | |
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Food and drinking:
Prepared food and drinks will be available most places
you stay. In some places you may have to order your food a day in advance
as they do not have fresh food of "tourist quality" readily available,
but you may often have the option of trying out the neighbouring "eatery".
In Puerto Princesa you will have a very wide range of restaurants
serving meals with drinks from US$ 2 up. At the small road side eateries
you can get a complete meal for about a dollar only. Water seem
to be fairly safe for drinking in most places in Puerto Princesa, but I recommend
you to stick to bottled mineral water - just to be on the safe side.
Regular sized beer and softdrinks usually sell at 25 cents,
but prices may be the double of that on remote places, to cover transport
and cooling (by ice blocks!) costs. Those ice blocks are used for the national
refreshment "Halo Halo" ( meaning "mixture mixture"
- pieces of coconut, palm "heart", egg, cake, beans, ... topped
with shreddered ice and evaporated milk - it's amazingly good), too, which
in the south of Palawan is a guaranteed way for catching serious stomach
trouble (like typhoid fever)...
For those of you, who love fresh fruits and sea food, Palawan
is paradise. From banana to pineapple, mango, and papaya as well as all kinds
of "never seen before" tropical fruits, everything is available,
especially at the local market in Puerto Princesa (some fruits like mangos
are seasonal). Fish, shells, snails, crabs, cuttle-fish and seaweeds are available
all year long. In the small coastal villages of the north you can buy fish
directly from the fisher men at the beach, if you are up early enough in the
morning.
| Links to pictures: | |
| Jackfruit [45kB] | |
| Fresh, delicious fish - can you see the foot ;-) [79kB] | |
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Transportation:
Travel by public transport is cheap and very dusty. Just
15 km. from downtown Puerto Princesa your "Palawan adventure" begins for real
as the "Hi-way" turns into a dusty and very bumpy dirt road. Things
are improving, but very slowly! Going north or south along the hi-way
you have good transport possibilities, but if you want to go to some place along
the west coast, or the interior hills en-route, you should have time and patience.
Most villages on the west coast are fairly small, the roads leading there are
virtual "dead-ends" and transport possibilities are usually very limited.
You may often have to wait several hours or even a whole day before you get
the chance to leave! If you have a tight time schedule and still want
to go to some remote place I strongly recommend you to hire
your own transport. From Puerto Princesa you can reach places like Brook's
Point (south east) and Port Barton (north west) within 5 hours of travel - if
you are lucky and have no or few flat tire(s) or vehicle break downs on the
way ! You should always be back in Puerto Princesa the day before your
scheduled departure from Palawan.
| Links to pictures: | |
| Local transport system - waterbuffalo sledge [98kB] | |
| Your best choice for transportation - Royale Bus [61kB] | |
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Money:
You'll find banks and money changers in Puerto Princesa
that can change major currencies like US$, AUS$, £,
DM and ¥ - that is if it's cash !!! If you
have traveller cheques the currency should be US$ ONLY!
The banks have a US$ 200 maximum exchange limit per day. Credit
cards can be used at some establishments within Puerto Princesa. VISA
and Master card are accepted for cash advances at Equitable Bank only.
Outside of Puerto Princesa exchanging other currencies than US$ is
often impossible!
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Health:
When travelling to the tropics your doctor most probably will recommend you
to "preserve" your whole body with drugs and chemicals. I've
been living here for several years now, travelling around all over the place,
and except for malaria my family and I never have contracted any major illness
yet. As long as you observe a fair degree of sanitary discipline
by washing your self and your clothes, eating well cooked food and
drinking bottled beverages, you face little chance to get sick.
Referring to personal conversations with local doctors, I recommend you to
get only vaccination for hepatitis and tetanus..
Mainly during rainy season malaria is a real danger that you should
take into serious consideration. During dry season you are not very
likely to get infected, but as a precautionary measure I VERY strongly
recommend you to take anti-malarial medicine. Within the city
area of Puerto Princesa your chance to get malaria (several Plasmodium
species) is about zero, but once you get to a moist and forested area just
outside the city malaria is a real problem. Local doctors prescribe
"chloroquine phosphate" as a prophylaxis and as they are living and
experiencing the cases up close, I guess it is best to take their drug recommendations
rather than that of a doctor sitting far away in another country. Two
tablets should be taken once a week, starting 2-3 weeks prior to your arrival
in Palawan and continuing 2-3 weeks after leaving. Still a combination
of e.g. "paludrine"AND chloroquine phosphate is strongly recommended,
as Plasmodium falciparum has a resistance against chloroquine of about
40% (paludrine is NOT available in Palawan). Therefore it might be a
good idea to seek abroad the advice of your local doctor, too. I've had the
dangerous falciparum malaria twice and just take my word for it - don't
even consider contracting it !!! It is EXTREMELY dangerous
business !
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FACTS: Geography
/ Attractions / Weather
/ Population / Tribes
/ Puerto
Princesa / Seas
/ Forests / Flora
Fauna / Conservation
Protection
/ Reforestation
PRACTICAL TIPS:
Accomodation /
Food / Transportation
/ Money / Health
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